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Creating Eclipse by A.D. Cook
( Part 2 )
Canvas Wrap Article, March 2005
[ CANVAS WRAP articles can be read at AirbrushTalk.com before they are added to this web site ]

In our second installment of CANVAS WRAP, we’re going to get the background painted.

I typically paint back to front, so I start by removing acetate pieces to expose the background area, leaving our lady covered for now. Separate the pieces by gently folding the acetate back against the scores to pop the individual pieces apart. If you’ve scored the acetate properly, they will come apart quite easily. If you encounter resistance, take your knife and carefully re-score the lines as needed. Avoid pulling the acetate so as not to distort it. The removed acetate pieces get taped to the studio wall for future use. To make life a bit easier, I position them in place like a large puzzle.

This is a good time to mix some paint. This painting is monochromatic; meaning it’ll appear as a one-color painting when finished. I mix a selection of colors to get the desired blue I’m looking for, but you could paint it any color you want. I wanted a winter-like feeling for this piece, so a dark blue seemed like the obvious choice.

The wall surface that our model is leaning against gets painted first. (Normally, working back to front, I’d paint the sky area first, but in this case I’m painting the wall to establish my darkest values). My first step is to get some color down, so using an Iwata LPH-50 Spray Gun I lightly build up the value to create an even fill of blue. Keep this light as we’ll be adding texture and it’ll be important that it show through. It’s always easier to darken later.

Canvas Wrap / Eclipse-017
Next, I switch to an Iwata HP-C to add stipple effect – lots and lots of stipple. To do this, remove the nozzle from the front of the airbrush and crank your air pressure up to 50 PSI. Spray the background to keep darkening it, but now you’ll get a nice course texture instead of the fine spray offered by the spray gun. Vary the air pressure, spraying some texture at 30 PSI, 40 PSI, and then 20 PSI until you achieve the desired result. This is a good thing to practice on scrap before approaching your painting. With a little practice you can create shading using the course texture rather nicely. Next, I switch to Com-Art Opaque Black and repeat the process, adding shadows under her hand and as needed. Then I replace the nozzle on my airbrush and I glaze over everything with my blue again so that my black becomes a blue-black, which looks more interesting than just straight black.
Canvas Wrap / Eclipse-019
Allow the background to thoroughly dry (usually overnight), then mask over everything that was previously painted. At this point, I’m also going to keep the torso protected as I prepare to paint the area behind her and the wall. I’ve used masking tape, masking paper and acetate to do everything here, but you could just as easily use frisket for this. If you’re going to use masking tape, make sure it’s good quality (I only use 3M brand tapes because they’re easy to remove and don’t leave residue behind). Notice at this point that I’ve used tape (or frisket) where I want a crisp edge, and acetate masking where I want softer edges. Also, the acetate covering the torso has never been removed from the canvas, ensuring an exact edge. This background is now ready to paint.
Canvas Wrap / Eclipse-021
I wanted the area behind our lovely lady to have a winter-like feeling. To achieve this, I start by airbrushing a blend of my blue – darker in the upper right-hand corner fading to lighter in the bottom left-hand corner. This is all painted with a HP-C, working slowing to keep the color light. Next, I lay the painting on the floor and randomly disperse lentils. Now spray another gradation with the beans in place, but rather than spraying directly at the lentils, spray at an angle (again, this is something worth playing around with on scrap before jumping straight to your painting). Be sure to spray lightly here, making sure you don’t blow the lentils around (This blend was sprayed at about 15 PSI, again using the HP-C). Remove the lentils and we’re back to the easel.

My next and final step is to spray over the entire area with a light color; a mixture of Com-Art White mixed with a few drops of my blue color. All I’m trying to do here is ghost back the background and take the edge off the lentils shapes. Finally, I can now unwrap my canvas.
Canvas Wrap / Eclipse-025
The background is now finished and has a lot of impact for what is really a simple technique. Mixing up the textures adds flavor to your painting and keeps the viewer interested.
Canvas Wrap / Eclipse-027
In the next installment of CANVAS WRAP we’ll start painting the figure. I can hardly wait.
<<< Return to part 1   |   Continue article (part 3) >>>



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