Welcome
to CANVAS WRAP, and ongoing series of step-by-step instructional
articles on the art
of airbrushing as fine art. CANVAS WRAP will present a “no
secrets” approach in these articles. If I’ve done it
I’ll show it, and if I know it I’ll share it. Most
projects featured here will be demonstrated on prepared canvas,
but most processes will be applicable to illustration board as
well. For those of you desiring to work on a smooth canvas
surface I’ve written and posted an article on my web site
titled “Creating
The Perfect Ultra-Smooth Canvas For Airbrush” ( http://ADCookFineArt.com/aa-article-canvasprep.html ).
My recent series of paintings have been life-size and larger
figurative paintings. In my recent painting titled Eclipse (36” x
36”), I’ve stayed with a monochromatic theme of blues,
and our figure is painted a bit larger than life size. In our
first installment of CANVAS WRAP we’re going to start at
the beginning of a painting, rather than focus on just specific
items. Over the course of the next few articles we’ll
focus on individual components and discuss the workings of other
parts of the human figure; hands, torso, hair, and touch base
regarding various textures.
I photograph all my own reference materials and subject matter – in this
case our model Brooke in front of a prop I created by cutting a circle in a piece
of black Gatorboard. From those I chose my final painting reference image. The
color photo has been manipulated in the computer and I’ve decided to paint
her in blue-violet hues. Once I’m happy with what I see on screen I print
it out as a large high-quality print that I will refer to as I paint, and also
as a smaller print that will fit in my projector.
The transfer of the image to canvas is pretty straight forward, but at the same
time it’s important to get it right. I project my image onto canvas and
draw her lightly with a blue watercolor pencil. I always try to draw the image
with a pencil that is closest to the color I intend on painting. Watercolor pencils
are my preferred option because they tend to disappear when painted over, they’re
easily erased, and they’re compatible with acrylic-based paints (as opposed
to lead or wax-based pencils). Take your time in the drawing process to make
sure you draw everything that is important, but at the same time try not to draw
so much that it becomes a drawing. I try to include some light shading as reference
points in areas where there are no distinct lines. An example of this would be
ribs, abdominal area, shoulder, variables in the cloth, and shadows.
Once I’m satisfied with the drawing, my next step is to start creating
my acetates. Very little masking was used for this painting. Rather, she’s
masked almost entirely with 5-mil acetate assisted with the use of Artool templates.
We’ll get into some of this later. For now, using clear tape I’ve
joined a couple pieces of 30” x 40” acetate together to make a sheet
large enough to cover the entire painting. Next, I trim the acetate piece down
to 36” x 36” which is the exact size of my canvas. The canvas
is
then laid flat and the acetate is positioned and taped in place with masking
tape to hold it in place. (Properly planned,
this entire painting will be created using one sheet of acetate.)
Now starts
the fun part. Using an X-Acto knife with a new #11 blade, I cut every
shape in the entire painting. Sometimes I do this with
the art flat, and other times with the canvas on the easel. Whatever
is most comfortable for you is fine. I take caution here to only
cut deep enough to score my acetate, being especially careful to
not cut all the way through. Then, with a Sharpie pen I draw "X"
marks across the cut lines so that alignment of the pieces is easier
later.
At this
time I also cut shapes that look like cat’s eyes and I draw
a dot at each end of those just to see them easier later. These shapes
will be
popped out and the openings taped over to hold the acetate down along various
edges. Lastly, I add notes on the individual shapes to remind me
later what they are.
Sometimes the notes just reference “up”, “hand”, “torso”,
or whatever I think I’ll need to know later. What seems obvious now may
become a bit confusing as these pieces get popped out and the acetate dismantled
and reassembled
throughout the course of the painting. The notes will be very helpful in identifying
the pieces, and aid in accurately repositioning them later.
That’s
it for this session. In the next installment of CANVAS WRAP we’ll
paint the background and work our way into the figure.